Anthony Bourdain: Hypocrite ... or Genius?

Anthony Bourdain is a celebrity food critic and occasional guest-judge of the Bravo TV show, Top Chef. A witty and entertaining writer, Bourdain recently agreed to take on Top Chef blogging duties as a viewer and respected expert foodie. Though undoubtedly smart, Bourdain took issue with Rocco DiSpirito's choice to, among other things, pitch, promote, and endorse Bertolli frozen meals.

His commentary surrounding Rocco's "selling out" is earning rave reviews in the comments section on his blog. Interestingly, Bourdain's readers also object to the proliferation of product placement on the show (a product placement that usefully informed me about the meals, since I watched the Bertolli episode on DVR and skipped the commercials).

Don't look now, Anthony, but you're pitching Bertolli, too. Not to mention Glad. Now ain't that a kick in the pants?

 

The truth is, Bourdain is promoting himself. His expertise. His charm. His personality. These characteristics make for entertaining television, blogs and more informed foodies. It just so happens that this entertainment also makes for a more enriched Anthony Bourdain, which is not much different than the source of his objection to Rocco Dispirito's marketing activities. Is this hypocrisy?

The readers of the Top Chef blogs don't seem to recognize the irony. There aren't many people sticking up for Rocco over on Bourdain's blog. He seems to have an audience unto himself. Likewise, there aren't many people criticizing Rocco on his recently acquired guest blog. People seem to be choosing their side and reading the blogs of those whose personality suits them best. Yet, it also seems the "controversy" has stirred up some interest in the blogs to motivate good-natured and well-meaning people to leave comments. More and more, it seems Bourdain's polemic is an act of measured genius.

Although I have a lot to say about the nature of Bourdain's criticism (as well as the usability of BravoTV.com's website), I must admire his ability to speak to and rile up his audience. - Cam Beck

Comments

[Paul McEnany]

Ahhh, another Top Chef fan! I dorkishly watch as well... :)

And you couldn't be more right about that website. It's terrible.

[Paul Herring]

Bourdain is a smug and two faced. He promotes restaurants on his show, which is less about cooking and more about him IMO.

As for the usability of the site, it's a smorgasbord of "what in the ()#$^( do I click on?"

[Irene]

You could say that from the start, with things like Kitchen Confidential, Bourdain has made his name with insidery gossip and picking fights with famous chefs. But he's also amazingly consistant. He respects -- glorifies-- chefs who've succeeded in the back-breaking restaurant world, laboring in inhuman conditions, serving the public and staying in business are the skills he values. That alone is his criteria. Yes, he's provocative. And yes, he's building the Bourdain brand to sell books instead of frozen dinners. But I don't know if that necessarily makes him hypocritical.

[Cam Beck]

Irene - Thank you for stopping by... You should also check out Rocco's response to Bourdain over at his Top Chef blog... Here's the salient point:

"Tony how are we so different? After more than 20 years behind the stove you left the restaurant business--so did I. You author and sell (admittedly much better written) books--so do I. You’re on TV--so am I. You write blogs--so do I. You speak your mind and have dedicated your life to entertaining people and so do I."

"I was stunned when I read your comments comparing me to Eric Clapton. I am grateful and didn’t know you felt that way about me, but I am still confused. Now it’s my virtuosity behind the stove that makes me such a loser? Don’t you see--it’s as absurd for you to insist I open a restaurant as it is for me to ask you to do the same. It’s not that I refuse to open a restaurant (who knows given the right situation), I just don’t need to cook at a 40-seater in a bad neighborhood to become the sunshine of your love again. You can enjoy my cooking anytime, no reservations."

[Rhea]

I find Bourdain enormously knowledgeable and entertaining. I loved Kitchen Confidential and am now reading The Nasty Bits. Sure, he's a self-promoter, but I've learned so much reading and watching him.

[Rhea]

I find Bourdain enormously knowledgeable and entertaining. I loved Kitchen Confidential and am now reading The Nasty Bits. Sure, he's a self-promoter, but I've learned so much reading and watching him.

[Cam Beck]

Rhea - I hope I don't come across as questioning Bourdain's expertise. I enjoy watching AND reading him.

[Armen]

In response to Cam Beck's posting highlighting Rocco's rebuttal to Tony. I would say to Rocco there is one place where you two are different - you will slap your face and name to anything that you think the lemmings will gobble up -- frozen pasta, pots and pans, the shopping channel forchristsake, and appearing on any program that will have you cast as the authority on Italian gastronomy.
That’s the difference between you two, but of course you don’t mention that. You mention the blogs and books-- which I don’t think would constitute as selling out in anyone’s mind.

[Cam Beck]

Armen - I hope I'm clear on this point: I don't consider Bourdain to be a sell-out. I also have not been convinced that Rocco's partnerships make him a sell-out, either. Do you have an argument about why his activities make him a sell-out, or what a sell-out specifically is?

[armen]

Not really sure how to expand. I mean i can see if he were a creation of the tv execs like our good friend Rachel is (who Tony has endless of love for), but at one point he was a serious chef making good food ..then he made the decision of saying i want to become a "star" and ill do anything i can do get there. but i wont do it through my food, ill do it through a marketing machine. to get back to Rachel -- she is a creation -- much like the pop stars or boy bands where it is marketing driven. Just walk down the isle of any toy store and see the endless number of trinkets and crap with Hanna Montana plastered all over. but that is ok. she is a creation of tv execs. thats the role she serves. Same can be said of Rachel.
But to take a once respectable chef and do that -- to me thats a sell out. if your a chef be a damn good chef and people will recognize you. Dont come on tv and peddle crap with your picture on it.